纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Z Zegna

或許當Z Zegna決定在紐約發表時裝時，品牌就已經設定好了「科技未來感」的風格基本定調。在2009春夏這季也不例外，不僅使用了最新穎、最前衛的高科技材質面料，在造型上也趨於清爽簡潔俐落。而這個殿堂級的男裝時尚品牌，如今也如同運動大廠Adidas那樣，開始更加專注於材質的研發。不過相較於其他提出更具有渲染力創作題材的男裝設計師，Z Zegna顯得缺乏了創作的精髓，也就是圍繞靈感的中心主軸的系列服裝。或許這也是我們已經被Zegna的義大利經典剪裁所制約，因而給予Z Zegna重塑經典太大的期盼。

整體來說，服裝的剪裁了無新意，搭配上也看不太出未來感。但在時尚的輪廓線上，這季Z Zegna給了男人更多的短褲，露出運動員般結實的小腿，就是男人這個夏天最基本的功課。絲質柔軟的光滑材質，被用在連帽夾克與長褲等單品上，顯得性感且時髦。更時髦的其實是褲腳的綁腿，頗有絕地武士的非凡架式。呈現的模特兒很快就壓過服裝的氣勢，精瘦結實的身型取代了以往頹廢骨感的纖細男孩，運動正式取代幽靈，成為春夏的主流。

September 8, 2008

This collection has established itself as the place where Zegna comes out to play with the future. It has used the latest in fabric technology, challenged proportions, and has drawn on inspirations from the most avant-garde menswear designers. Maybe it's just because we’re now familiar with Z Zegna that it no longer looks quite so…challenging. Instead, it fits right in with the fashion-driven sportswear that companies like Adidas are making fortunes with. Here, that meant shorts and more shorts, ribbing that gave an athletic edge to a pair of plaid pants, silky tech materials used for hoodies and blousons, and leggings showing up in place of trousers. The lean silhouette was further trimmed with the skullcaps worn by the models. What gave the look more texture were the prints that suggested age or water damage, an interesting contrast with the streamlined clothes themselves.

— Tim Blanks

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