纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Victor Glemaud

如果一個品牌或時裝設計師是以某項裁縫技術或特色單品聞名，那麼我們就很難不特別拿出放大鏡來檢視這個品牌每季的這項作品，但是在另一方面，我們也很容意無話可說。這季的Victor Glemaud就是圍繞著品牌最善長的針織衫，多彩多姿的顏色和幾何圖形色塊的拼接，讓Victor Glemaud顯得別具年輕的時髦感。¬「瀟灑、活潑、輕快」就是設計師自己對這個系列的看法。「我覺得反正這很有趣，這是夏天，一切盡量簡單就好，不過可以小小的作點變化。」

根據設計師的說法，就是拒絕複雜的搭配法則。拒絕複雜？這在當今以混搭為王道的時尚圈可是非常少見，不過我們當然很樂意終於有些設計師開始省思男性服裝的減法原則，簡單到有許多針織衫單品是搭佩以Levi’s白色牛仔褲，與復古典藏的Gucci樂福鞋，呈現出來的樣貌就像是亞蘭得倫般相當經典。這個系列除了白色牛仔褲和無論你在夏天究竟會不會穿上的多樣化針織衫之外，豐富的色彩如同橄欖綠，天空藍，鴿灰色，香蕉黃與蕃茄紅等顏色，都讓這季的Victor Glemaud男人心情愉悅。

September 5, 2008

There's something to be said for a designer who knows his strengths and sticks to them. Victor Glemaud's tightly-edited spring collection consisted solely of sweaters—"Chic, playful, and light," in the designer's words. "It's fun, it's summer, it's easy, but with a little twist," he added. "Nothing too complicated." Uncomplicated—that’s a rare trait in fashion these days, and it's also nice to see the industry insider-turned-designer isn't taking himself too seriously. Glemaud's knits were paired with white Levi’s (some rolled up, some cut off mid-thigh) and vintage Gucci loafers—a reference to Alain Delon, a major influence on the collection and Glemaud. With such a narrow focus, styling played a disproportionately large role in the presentation, but the built-in layering was no stylist's trick. What looked like two gold-buttoned cardigans (or sweater vests) was actually a bit of knitwear trompe l’oeil—a single sweater with an extra front piece stitched on, for a layered look sans layered bulk, not unimportant when you're wearing cashmere in summer.

— Josh Peskowitz

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