纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－SPURR

當設計師Simon Spurr優雅的描述著2009春夏這季的男裝時尚藍圖時，他說這季的Spurr就像是「頂級時尚遇見街頭文化（Sartorial meets street）」，或許設計師最近的旅遊給予了他這個靈感，的確，無論在巴黎或米蘭，東京或倫敦，還有紐約、摩納哥、甚至巴塞隆納這些城市，奢侈品的金字塔消費客層已經被許多毛頭小子所攻佔。這些看上去相當年輕的「男孩」，有些是含著金湯匙出生的企業後代，有些則是新銳的文化創意人士與藝術家，更有許多是優秀的金牌運動員，總之，年輕的力量已經不容忽視，這些街頭小子需要量身訂製他們的時裝。

對這些小夥子來說，Ralph Lauren最頂級的紫標系列可算不上什麼奢華，Spurr這季春夏提供給這些億萬少年的是無可挑剔的柔軟皮革與非常貼身舒適的立體剪裁。當然，這系列服裝的樣式會偏向宮廷風格，因為這樣的男生會有許多晚宴與派對要參加，8顆鈕釦的繁複背心或鵝黃色的絨呢針織衫，恰如其分的營造出貴族學院的年輕時髦態度。不過，有幾件上衣的袖隴部份相當開闊，或許這也是為了適應現在越來越多嗜健身如命的時髦男生吧。
September 7, 2008

"Sartorial meets street"—that's how Simon Spurr described his Spring 2009 offering, which was aimed at a new generation "in the boardroom that is also comfortable on the street, for whom high and low fashions are equally important and relevant." Of course, a former designer for Ralph Lauren Purple Label is bound to have a slightly elevated definition of "low," and streetwear à la Spurr was nothing if not luxe. To wit: a pair of butch-looking bombers made from leather of jaw-dropping suppleness, or the bird's-eye wool trousers paired with a fine yellow cashmere pull and an eight-button vest (plus boxer's hand tape for a corporate-brawler effect). At the sartorial end of the spectrum, Spurr was going for what he called a "young Savile Row" look, which was best exemplified by the Prince of Wales check with a purple cross-grain he'd developed specifically for this collection. The confidence at work was palpable, from the formfitting—but not shrunken—tailoring of the suits to the waistcoats, which were cut with wider arm openings, presumably to encourage a little boardroom chest puffing.

— Josh Peskowitz

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