纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Obedient Sons

或許品牌的名稱在字面上會讓你有種穿上Obedient Sons就得要當個「乖兒子」的錯覺，但在這季春夏男裝我們彷彿可以從露出纖細長腿的短褲男孩造型裡，發現這個乖兒子可不是待在房間裡唸書的乖寶寶，而是打球跑步各種運動樣樣都來的陽光型男。儘管偏明亮活潑的色調與纖瘦窄版的中性輪廓剪裁，讓Obedient Sons服裝有種女裝男穿的疑惑。沒想到設計師Swaim和Christina Hutson自己卻說：「對啊這就是我們的目的，男生女生本來就可以交換衣服穿。」

任何學過基本裁縫的學院派學生都會反對他們的說法，並抗議男生女生體型骨架本來就不同，怎可能混唯一談。因此Obedient Sons營造了一個有點迷幻的魔法世界，在那裡所有人都同樣纖瘦，這種論調的確令人想到嘻皮年代，設計師說透過衣服的花邊，柔軟的亞麻，和略帶亮澤感的絲綢，將構建一個新的時尚烏托邦。儘管如此，許多單品像是花印布短褲，窄版西裝，和所謂的「公主大衣」（其實就是當年女王伊麗莎白二世的女兒常穿的款式）和銀色提花的刺繡夾克…噢，我們開始懷疑這個乖兒子是不是邁入叛逆期了。

September 6, 2008

The message on the flags stuck into the tiny marzipan cakes that awaited guests was "Eat me." The psychedelic resonance of such a suggestion ("Go ask Alice, I think she'll know") was borne out by a gray linen jacket colorfully embroidered with slogans like "Turn on, tune in, drop out" and "Is there life after youth?" Swaim and Christina Hutson said their inspiration was cults and communes, and, to a live soundtrack from a scruffy, cult-ish looking crew called Stars Like Fleas, they presented their vision of a fashion utopia: men and women in complete harmony, wearing adaptations of the same idea.

The way it worked in practice was more a feminization of menswear than an androgynous middle ground, but the results were impressive. Among the key words that cropped up in the show notes were "faded," "blurred," and "hippie." Apply those notions to the Hutsons' lace tops, floppy linens, and washed silks, and you've got fashion's equivalent of the freak-folk movement. Obedient Sons shares that natural eccentricity, which is also the wellspring of the label's wit and charm. Still, outfits like a floral-printed linen shorts suit, a little tailored coat (on Queen Elizabeth's daughter, it would be called a "princess coat"—I'm not quite sure what it's called when her son is the one wearing it), or that embroidered jacket would be merely dippy if they weren't so beautifully crafted. The same thing applied to an "evening" suit of jacket and shorts in a silvery jacquard. Obedient Sons love their bare legs.

— Tim Blanks

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