纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Yigal Azrouël

在紐約Meatpacking區著名的夜店部落中，有間別具個性的Yigal Azrouël時裝店，這也是品牌第一次單獨發表男裝系列的展示地點。而這個發表會就像是這個品牌給人的感覺一樣極富酷勁的個性，而且秀後派對時，大家都玩瘋了。由於酒杯來不及洗，等不及新酒杯的供應，他們就把整支整支的伏特加酒傳來傳去，大家直接拿瓶子灌酒，相當瘋狂。結果，這個大家處於一種狂喜的瘋癲中的畫面，正好符合設計師本季靈感的中心思想「完美的缺陷（Perfect imperfection）」。

設計師Yigal Azrouël說他向來著迷於材質的研究，所以這個系列當然也是以「表現材質的特色」作為設計服裝的原點。有時候他甚至會先把作品洗滌過後，看看布料的反應並重新修改設計，這種類似牛仔工業仿古的石洗、抽鬚、磨舊手法，都讓這個春夏系列男裝，充滿一股濃厚的陽剛味與豪邁不羈的粗獷感。搭配方面，格子搭配格子的撞色突破了傳統的思路更顯搶眼，層次感的堆疊也豐盛了視覺效果。其他像是不規則開襟的領圍設計元素，也饒富新意，充滿了相當多變化。

September 12, 2008

The setting for Yigal Azrouël's first menswear-only presentation was his store in New York's Meatpacking District. The neighborhood is known for its nightlife, and the event had a fittingly festive attitude (they ran out of glasses, so one partier took it upon himself to relieve the bar of a bottle of vodka and pass it around). But it's hard to imagine the bridge-and-tunnel crowd would know what to make of Yigal's deconstructed clothing. "Perfect imperfection," Azrouël calls it. "I'm surprised by the fabrics, so I start with that," he said. "Then I wash it and find the design. And then I wash the garment." The results, without exception, were disheveled and light. Think layer upon layer of double-faced tees (one side black and white striped, the other canary yellow), gauzy V-necks, and brightly colored gingham check—maybe with a crumpled cotton, shawl-collared peacoat, or a multi-pocketed leather jacket. Even leather pants (an odd choice for spring/summer) got the full wash treatment, which made them paper thin, with yards of broken detail stitching at the seat and knee. Yigal's take on eveningwear? A black patch-pocket blazer with flowing, ultra-drop-crotch linen pants with blue stripes down the middle. The footwear, both here and elsewhere, was dead-stock Eastern European gym shoes—perfect imperfection in another form.

— Josh Peskowitz

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