纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Michael Kors

從一開場歡樂無比的the Beach Boys` "Good Vibrations"主題音樂開始，到終場前的紅藍針織長裙結束，Michael Kors深知年底總統大選帶給大家的焦慮心情，因此，將美國設計師傳統的經典元素重新賦予新面貌，像是波卡圓點圖樣比基尼下搭五零年代風格的罩裙、以及野餐桌巾格紋圖案連身洋裝等；Kors在09春夏，更摒棄polyester這類人工質材、而堅持使用柔軟細緻的crushed silk，來呈現輕盈優雅的雋永氣質。

而根深蒂固的大美國沙文主義觀念也毫無保留的表現在所有作品中，如國旗象徵的星星與條紋：立體抓摺的細條紋洋裝、海軍藍與大紅相間的寬版橫條紋泳裝與polo衫、仿似海員造型的條紋t-shirt則下搭抓皺寬褲和大圓裙；或許新季節的new looks略為平淡不顯新意，但這卻是最能夠讓美國主流都會人仕接受、且毫無異議的安全作品。

September 10, 2008

A surf bum trying to get into the Everglades Club in Palm Beach—that was the fantasy figure for Michael Kors' latest menswear collection. It was a cinematic notion that was more than supported by the clothes themselves. Pair a WASP-y madras blazer with board shorts in a wild floral pattern and you've got the picture. In much the same way that Michel Gaubert's soundtrack techno-fied the Beach Boys and the Go-Go's, Kors revamped classic American sportswear pieces: a balmacaan in neoprene, a polo scuba detailed in stretch cotton, a madras anorak in a tech fabric. He also offered the more conventional country-club classics—blazers, nice cotton slacks—but, rather than navy, the blazers came in cobalt blue or an eye-popping yellow, and the slacks were cropped into clam diggers. In other words, Kors wasn't feeling like playing it safe. Kudos for that. Portofino will be a lot more colorful next summer.

— Tim Blanks

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