纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－3.1 Phillip Lim

進行到尾聲的紐約時裝週有著愈來愈精彩多樣的風格呈現，儘管紐約這城市代表的就是俐落時髦都會形象，設計師們還是從中力求表現；設計師3.1 Phillip Lim形容自己是被商業推著往前走的瘋狂實驗者，2009年春夏的新系列中，混合了北非摩爾民族的遊牧氣質、阿拉伯帝國的異國風情、以及西班牙南部安達魯西亞一帶的熱情明亮；除了抓皺打摺的薄紗雪紡質材貫穿著所有單品之外，仿似清真寺院建築的幾何剪裁細節皆高明的被設計師運用其中。

當然，混融了多重民俗風格和伊比利半島的歐式奔放、以及紐約客的極簡態度、Phillip Lim形容自己是被商業推著往前走的瘋狂實驗者；即便如此，還是有不顯新意的詭異設計突兀出現，像是先前Viktor & Rolf備受爭議的雙層緊身腰帶！綜觀來說，新季節的collection堪稱中規中矩（完全不似設計師自己的誇張描述。）或許，將Phillip Lim前幾季的單品翻出來重新搭配，也絲毫不會被視作品牌的過季單品喔。

September 10, 2008

The set for Phillip Lim's show recalled the spires and geometric patterns of a Moorish mosque. The show notes made reference to bullfighters. He was evidently feeling Spain this season. But while the first few women's looks did indeed nod to that locale, the menswear was more Bowie than Barcelona. Jackets were double-breasted with a lower break—echoes of David Live—with voluminous pants pegged above the ankle. This effect, which was carried throughout the collection, allowed a clear view of the shoes by Christian Louboutin, which came in copper and titanium metallics, as well as many pastel shades of python. I'd be surprised if they weren't a hit. The palette was heavy on artfully aged pastels, like the sea-foam suede overcoat paired with a light pink shirt, or the tonal double-breasted silk safari shirt and cargo shorts. The men's standouts were the evening looks, though, especially the midnight-blue double-breasted tux, again with the pegged leg and silver shoe—plus a gorgeous (though not very Bowie) leather attaché folder.

— Josh Peskowitz

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